The smart answer is that because that is all that I can afford; but that is not actually the case, or at least, is only part of it. It is true that if I could afford it I would have a huge collection of haute horology and wear a different one every day to according to how feel. But as my budget is somewhat more limited than my taste, I have had to settle for a small collection of affordable watches that are suitable for the different looks that I wear.

I have to admit here that I love watches, most men do. They tick all the boxes for what attracts guys; they’re gadgets; they’re status symbols; they’re one of the few forms of jewellery for men that are acceptable; and, of course, they are useful. More importantlthan all that, or perhaps the effect of all that, is they are a statement of individuality (or not) even more readable than a man’s clothes. A glance at a man’s watch will tell you a great deal about him. So by choosing your watch you choose what message is being given out.

The Horological Arms Race

This may be why many men go for big expensive watches. It’s the sartorial equivalent of an open top sports car. And it is the case that I do fancy expensive watches myself. Personally, I would love a Breuget but one of them could set you back the best part of €20,000. Even that is relatively affordable; a watch from Irish master watch makers the McGonigle Brothers could be ten times that.

And right there is one of the problems with expensive watches. There is no effective limit on the amount that they cost so no matter how much you are able to spend there is always the possibility that you will come up against somebody with a more expensive watch on their wrist. And if your self-image is reliant on a “mine is bigger than yours” watch you may suddenly find yourself feeling very small.

Another issue is that your watch should fit in with the rest of your outfit. A €5,000 watch looks a bit odd under the sleeve of a €500 suit. More to the point, people may well make a negative assessment based on an apparently overly-expensive watch. Either you have a taste for bling or there is something you are not telling them about your income (bad move if it’s the revenue that is checking you out) or, far worse, you have succumbed to the lures of a cheap “replica” watch. Or a fake as they are colloquially referred to. And there is nothing more naff than a fake watch. In fact, such is the prevalence of fake watches today that genuine watches by some of the world’s most famous brands are in danger of being mistaken for them. Hence the reason the big watch houses put so much effort into pursuing and prosecuting the fakers.

Cheap v Affordable

Cheap is an unfortunate term, with its associations with low quality. I much prefer the term affordable, which signifies a certain level of quality at a reasonable price. Timex watches, for example, produce decent quality watches for every budget. The question of what exactly is affordable is more difficult. After all, Bill Gates idea of what is affordable is considerably more expensive than mine. Basically, what is affordable will be dictated by your own income. No-one else can tell you how much you can really afford to spend on a watch. As with anything though, there is a certain element of you get what you pay for. It’s worth going that little bit further to ensure value for money.

What To Look For In An Affordable Watch

So what does the well dressed man look for in a watch? How does he choose a watch that looks good, suits his style and doesn’t break the bank? Well, let us go back to the comments I made earlier on why men like watches and take it from there.

To start with the obvious one – watches tell the time. Actually, it’s debatable as to how important that is these days. In the early days of horology time was fluid and hard to pin down. But today most men have access to a myriad of time checks. Every electronic gadget, even your mobile phone, will instantly update you as to the time. And yet there is something reassuring about being able to glance at your wrist and get a fairly accurate update on the time. So, I am a traditionalist. By and large I like my watches to be easy to read and reasonably reliable. I say reasonably because, hey, I’m Irish, five or ten minutes either way doesn’t matter in the greater scheme of things. Seriously though, a watch should be accurate and fortunately, even cheap quartz movements are sufficient for reasonably accurate timekeeping. Readability usually means a clear dial with large hands pointing out the time but , having said that, there are many interesting timepieces available with alternative approaches to displaying the time and I may come back to them in later posts.

As for watches being gadgets, well they’re a one trick pony really. They tell the time and that’s about it. Well chronographs, diving watches and the like have some other useful and important functions but I go with the old design dictum of form follows function. For my everyday watches I want them to tell the time and for sports watches I want them to perform their subordinate functions efficiently and, again, clearly.

No, I think the really important factor is that watches are also an adornment, an accessory, even a form of jewellery if you must. And, as with any other accessory, a watch should be chosen for its style , for its design and for its look. Now that can mean one that catches your eye for any sort of reason or just one that matches your outfit (and if you’re fastidious about these things you can always make sure your watchstrap matches your belt which matches your shoes). I look for classic design in my watches and there are a surprising number of classic designs at affordable prices. The Mondaine Swiss Railway Watch is a good example and one that I wear as an everyday watch. If on trend looks are more your thing then dedicated fashion watch brands like Diesel or Fossil churn out hundreds of stylish and trendy designs every year.

Which does raise the issue of the status symbol aspect of a watch. If you are going for a more individual or unusual watch than you are relying on its style and design qualities to give the message that you are a man of taste and discernment. A good watch is about more than the price tag. Like a good suit or fine shoes it will give off a message of class and quality.

Where To Watch The Watches

Unless you wear the same outfit all the time (and where is the fun in that?) start putting together a small collection of affordable watches choosing them forspecific occasions, outfits or needs. That way you will always have a classic accessory on your wrist and you’ll give out the message that you may not have a fortune but you always have style. Consider what sort of watch you need for work, for sport or for dating. Take some time to look on line. Look at what the men you take design cues off of are wearing. Do plenty of research. Start right here on the internet. From Amazon to Ebay there are piles of watches to be discovered. Look at watch forums, I’m a big fan of watchuseek, and just use Google to search for interesting, alternative and affordable watches. There’s a whole wide world and web of wonderful watches just waiting for you.

I hope to post a bit more about watches here on The Linen Suit. In the short term I am going to start an occasional series of reviews of the watches that I own and, maybe, that I aspire to own, so watch this space and come back for more.